A well-maintained sprinkler system saves 20–30% on your water bill compared to a neglected one. In Fresno, Kerman, and Clovis — where water rates keep rising and watering schedules limit you to 3 days per week in summer — every gallon matters. Here's how to keep your system running efficiently year-round.
Monthly Sprinkler Checks
Set a reminder to do this once a month during the watering season (April through October). It takes 20 minutes and catches problems before they waste hundreds of gallons.
Run Each Zone Manually
Go to your controller and activate each zone one at a time. Walk the yard while each zone runs and look for:
- Broken pop-up heads. Heads that don't pop up, spray sideways, or have cracked housings. These are usually caused by lawnmower contact or foot traffic.
- Misaligned spray patterns. Heads that have shifted and no longer point where they should. Spray hitting fences, walls, or the neighbor's yard instead of your grass.
- Clogged nozzles. Heads with weak, uneven, or sputtering spray. Dirt and mineral buildup from Central Valley's hard water is the usual culprit.
- Dry spots. Areas that aren't receiving adequate coverage — often corners, edges along fences, and narrow side yards.
- Pooling water. Puddles that form quickly, indicating a head is delivering too much water, a line is leaking, or the soil is too compacted to absorb at the delivery rate.
Check for Overspray
Look for water hitting sidewalks, driveways, or streets. This is both wasted water and a code violation in all three Central Valley cities. Fresno, Kerman, and Clovis issue warnings for irrigation overspray, and repeat violations can result in fines. Adjust any head that sprays onto hardscape — it usually takes a small flat-head screwdriver to turn the arc adjustment screw.
Pro Tip: Run your system during the time it normally runs (early morning) at least once per season and observe it in real-time. Timer-activated zones that run while you're asleep can have problems you never see. Set your alarm early one day per month and walk the yard while the sprinklers are running.
Seasonal Sprinkler Adjustments
Your system should not run on the same schedule year-round. Central Valley weather varies dramatically by season, and your irrigation needs to match.
Spring (March–April)
- Increase run times from winter settings. Start at 50% of your summer run times and increase gradually as temperatures climb.
- Check for freeze damage. Even mild Central Valley freezes (low 30s) can crack plastic fittings, riser pipes, and pop-up housings. Run every zone and watch for leaks at connections.
- Reprogram your timer for the 3-day watering schedule that begins April 1 in most Central Valley cities. Set the correct odd/even watering days for your address.
- Test coverage. Place empty tuna cans across the lawn while a zone runs. After 15 minutes, measure the water depth in each can. They should all have roughly the same amount. If some cans have half an inch and others have nothing, you have coverage gaps.
Summer (June–August)
- Verify full coverage. As temperatures climb above 100°F, areas with marginal coverage in spring become dead spots in summer. Any area receiving less than the surrounding lawn will brown out first.
- Adjust heads that have shifted. Ground settling, mowing, and foot traffic push heads out of alignment over time. Walk each zone and straighten any head that's tilted or rotated off target.
- Run two short cycles instead of one long one. Central Valley clay soil absorbs water slowly. A single 20-minute cycle often produces runoff after 8–10 minutes because the soil can't absorb water that fast. Instead, run 12 minutes at 6:00 AM, then 12 minutes at 7:00 AM. The first cycle wets the surface so the second cycle soaks deeper without runoff.
- Check for misting. High pressure causes sprinkler heads to produce a fine mist that evaporates before hitting the ground. In 105°F heat, misting can waste 30–40% of your water. Install pressure-regulating heads or a pressure reducer on the main line if misting is persistent.
Fall (October–November)
- Reduce run times by 30–50% as temperatures drop and evaporation decreases.
- Transition to the 2-day or 1-day winter schedule per your city's regulations (typically November 1).
- Blow out drip lines if you have drip irrigation for planters or flowerbeds. Mineral buildup from hard water clogs emitters over the season. Flush each drip line by opening the end cap and running the zone for 2–3 minutes.
Winter (December–February)
- Reduce to 1–2 days per week with short run times. Dormant Bermuda grass needs very little water. Overwatering in winter promotes fungal diseases and weed growth.
- Check for leaks. Low-flow conditions in winter make it easier to spot slow leaks — look for unusually green patches or soggy areas that don't dry out between watering days.
- Keep the controller powered. Even if you water less in winter, don't unplug the controller. Modern controllers retain programming, but older models may lose settings during a power interruption.
Common Sprinkler Problems and Repair Costs
Here are the most frequent issues we see on sprinkler repair calls across Fresno, Kerman, and Clovis, along with what to expect for costs.
Broken Pop-Up Heads
Symptoms: Head doesn't pop up, sprays erratically, or has a cracked body.
Cause: Lawnmower impact is the #1 cause. Walking or driving over heads also cracks housings. Central Valley's hard water causes mineral buildup inside the head that can jam the pop-up mechanism.
Fix: Replace the head. Pop-up spray heads cost $3–$8 at Home Depot or Lowe's. Rotor heads (for large areas) cost $15–$25.
Cost: DIY: $5–$15 in parts. Professional: $75–$100 per head (parts + labor), with most companies offering lower per-head rates when replacing multiple heads at once.
DIY difficulty: Easy. Unscrew the old head, screw in the new one. Match the brand and model for best results. No digging required for a direct replacement.
Stuck Valves
Symptoms: A zone won't turn on (valve stuck closed) or won't turn off (valve stuck open, water runs constantly on that zone).
Cause: Debris in the valve diaphragm, a worn diaphragm, or a failed solenoid. Central Valley's mineral-heavy water accelerates wear on rubber valve components.
Fix: Clean or replace the valve diaphragm and/or solenoid. Valve boxes are usually located underground near the water meter or along the side of the house.
Cost: Professional: $100–$200 per valve (diagnosis + parts + labor). Valve rebuilds (new diaphragm + solenoid) are less expensive than full valve replacement.
DIY difficulty: Moderate. Finding the valve box and identifying the correct valve can be challenging if your system isn't mapped. The actual repair involves disassembling the valve, but if you've never done it, it's easy to reassemble incorrectly.
Line Leaks
Symptoms: Soggy or unusually green patches in the yard, higher-than-expected water bills, loss of pressure on one or more zones.
Cause: PVC pipe cracks from ground settling, root intrusion, or freeze damage. Fitting failures at connections. Age — PVC pipes installed 15+ years ago become brittle.
Fix: Locate the leak (often requires running the zone and probing the wet area), excavate, cut out the damaged section, and splice in new pipe with couplings.
Cost: Professional: $125–$250 for a typical line repair. Complex leaks (under concrete, deep lines, multiple break points) can run $300–$500.
DIY difficulty: Moderate to hard. Requires digging, cutting PVC, and gluing new fittings. If you're comfortable with basic plumbing, a single-point leak is manageable. Multiple leaks or leaks under walkways should be left to a pro.
Controller Issues
Symptoms: System doesn't run on schedule, runs at wrong times, only some zones activate, or the display is blank/garbled.
Cause: Power outages resetting programming, blown fuse or tripped breaker, corroded wire connections, or a failing controller.
Fix: Reprogram the controller. Check the fuse (inside the controller panel) and the outlet or breaker. Inspect wire connections for corrosion — Central Valley moisture and alkaline soil corrode exposed wire nuts over time.
Cost: Professional: $50–$100 for reprogramming and troubleshooting. Controller replacement (if needed): $75–$200 for the unit plus $50–$100 for installation.
DIY difficulty: Easy for reprogramming (consult your controller manual or look up the model on YouTube). Harder for wiring issues — if you're not comfortable with low-voltage electrical, call a pro.
Smart Controller Upgrade: Save 20–50% on Water
If you're still using a basic timer controller, upgrading to a smart sprinkler controller is one of the best investments you can make for a Central Valley home.
Smart controllers use local weather data, soil type settings, and plant type profiles to automatically adjust watering schedules. They water more on hot days and less (or not at all) on cool or rainy days. For Central Valley homeowners on restricted watering schedules, they maximize every drop on your allowed watering days.
Top Smart Controllers for Fresno Homes
Rachio 3: The most popular residential smart controller. Easy app setup, weather-based adjustments, and direct integration with local weather stations. Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Home. 8-zone model: $180–$230.
Hunter Hydrawise: Preferred by irrigation professionals. Robust weather adjustment, flow monitoring (detects leaks automatically), and contractor-grade reliability. 6-zone model: $200–$270.
Orbit B-hyve: Budget-friendly option with solid smart features. Weather-based adjustment, app control, and compatibility with most existing wiring. 8-zone model: $100–$150.
Installation cost: $50–$100 professionally installed (swapping out an existing controller and programming zones). Most homeowners can DIY the swap in 30–45 minutes — it's just matching colored wires to terminals.
Water savings: Smart controllers typically reduce outdoor water use by 20–50% compared to a fixed-schedule timer. On an average Central Valley water bill, that's $20–$60 per month in summer — the controller pays for itself in one season.
Pro Tip: All three controllers listed above are EPA WaterSense certified, which may qualify you for local water utility rebates. Check with your water provider — some Central Valley utilities offer $50–$100 rebates on qualifying smart controllers.
When to DIY vs. Call a Pro
DIY-friendly repairs:
- Replacing broken pop-up spray heads (straightforward swap)
- Adjusting head spray patterns and arc
- Cleaning clogged nozzles (pull out the nozzle, soak in vinegar, replace)
- Reprogramming your controller
- Replacing the controller backup battery
- Adjusting run times and watering days
Call a professional:
- Valve repair or replacement (buried components, electrical connections)
- Line leak repair (digging, PVC work, pressure testing)
- Adding new zones or heads (requires understanding hydraulics, pipe sizing, and valve wiring)
- System design for new installations or major renovations
- Backflow preventer testing (required annually in some jurisdictions, must be done by a certified tester)
- Any issue you've attempted to fix twice without success
Annual Sprinkler Maintenance Checklist
- Monthly (April–October): Run each zone, walk the yard, check for breaks and misalignment
- April: Spring startup — check for freeze damage, reprogram timer, test coverage
- June: Mid-season check — adjust for full summer coverage, check pressure
- August: Peak-season check — verify no dry spots, clean clogged heads
- November: Fall shutdown — reduce timers, flush drip lines, check for leaks
- January: Winter check — verify timer is programmed correctly for minimal winter watering
We Fix and Maintain Sprinkler Systems
Our sprinkler repair service covers everything from a single broken head to full system redesigns. We work on all major brands (Rain Bird, Hunter, Orbit, Toro, Rachio) and carry common parts on our trucks so most repairs are completed in one visit.
Schedule sprinkler service or call (559) 809-1230. We serve Kerman, Fresno, Clovis, and surrounding Central Valley communities.